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photo:mamiya16 [2018/05/13 16:34] – [Instructions] philpem | photo:mamiya16 [2020/12/23 17:05] (current) – philpem | ||
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===== Film cartridges ===== | ===== Film cartridges ===== | ||
- | Film cartridges for the Mamiya 16 series are quite rare. Sometimes the cameras come with a used cartridge inside, but more commonly the cartridges are thrown away before the camera is sold. Even if you have a cartridge, you often want a few more "for safety" | + | Film cartridges for the Mamiya 16 series are quite rare. Sometimes the cameras come with a used cartridge inside, but more commonly the cartridges are thrown away before the camera is sold. Even if you have a cartridge, you often want a few more. |
+ | |||
+ | Thankfully my 16 Automatic came with some cartridges -- so I measured and modelled them in OpenSCAD. Now with a 3D printer, some sticky-backed black felt (I used Fablon Velour) and these STL files, you can make your own cartridges! | ||
- | Thankfully my 16 Automatic came with some cartridges -- and I have a 3D printer. With a piece of sticky-backed black felt (I used Fablon Velour) and these STL files, you can make your own cartridges! | ||
==== STL files ==== | ==== STL files ==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | These files are available from [[https:// | ||
* Mamiya16_Base.stl (source: Mamiya16_Base.scad) -- the cartridge base | * Mamiya16_Base.stl (source: Mamiya16_Base.scad) -- the cartridge base | ||
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These need to be printed at 0.1mm layer height. I used a 0.3mm nozzle which proved to be sufficient, but you may wish to use a smaller nozzle to improve the fine detail. | These need to be printed at 0.1mm layer height. I used a 0.3mm nozzle which proved to be sufficient, but you may wish to use a smaller nozzle to improve the fine detail. | ||
+ | |||
+ | I've successfully printed these in ABS using a Solidoodle 2 Pro, and in black PETG using a Creality Ender 5 Pro. I recommend PETG as it is much less likely to warp, is more dimensionally accurate (less shrinkage), and in general prints better. | ||
+ | |||
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+ | ==== Materials required ==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | - 3D printed models -- see above | ||
+ | - 2x pieces of sticky-backed black felt (e.g. Fablon Velour), 65mm long and 16mm high. | ||
+ | - Black electrical tape | ||
+ | - Optional | ||
==== Instructions ==== | ==== Instructions ==== | ||
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- You will need all the parts of the cartridge: the take-up spool, cartridge body and the two caps. | - You will need all the parts of the cartridge: the take-up spool, cartridge body and the two caps. | ||
- Remove any residual tape or glue from the cartridge components. | - Remove any residual tape or glue from the cartridge components. | ||
+ | - Replace the light seals (each is a 35mm long by 5mm wide piece of sticky-back Velour) | ||
- In complete darkness, or a camera changing bag: | - In complete darkness, or a camera changing bag: | ||
- Cut a length of 16mm-wide film, 16-18 inches long. | - Cut a length of 16mm-wide film, 16-18 inches long. | ||
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* A 36-exposure roll of 35mm film is around five feet long -- giving three strips of Mamiya film per 35mm cartridge. | * A 36-exposure roll of 35mm film is around five feet long -- giving three strips of Mamiya film per 35mm cartridge. | ||
* Make a measuring-stick of the right length - this will make it easier to cut the film down in the dark. | * Make a measuring-stick of the right length - this will make it easier to cut the film down in the dark. | ||
- | - Use a strip of thin tape (9mm wide, around 30mm long -- Kapton tape or film splicing tape is best for this) to attach the end of the film to the take-up spool. | + | - Use a strip of thin tape (9mm wide, around 30mm long -- film splicing tape is best for this, but masking tape or Scotch tape will also work) to attach the end of the film to the take-up spool. |
- Wind the other end of the film into a tight spiral. | - Wind the other end of the film into a tight spiral. | ||
- Load the tight spiral into the " | - Load the tight spiral into the " |